Story and photos by Airman 1st Class Norman Enriquez
American Forces Network Kaiserslautern December 22, 2023
Able Chef Jack Osborne, Royal New Zealand Navy, prepares food on U.S. Coast Guard Cutter Healy (WAGB 20) in the Arctic Ocean, Sep. 6. USCGC Healy trains alongside allied and partnered maritime forces helping the U.S. maintain relationships and build the trust essential for ensuring regional security.
Preface
“I bet you never imagined the Air Force would bring you here.”
On several occasions, this or something very similar was said to me during a recent TDY I was on. And they were right.
In mid-August, I left for a TDY that most service members, let alone Airmen, would have done anything for. The mission was to conduct public affairs support for the U.S. Coast Guard Cutter Healy (WAGB-20). This may not mean much unless you know that the Healy is designed to conduct research in the polar regions of the world. More specifically, the Healy is an icebreaker that deploys to the Arctic Circle usually once a year.
During the TDY, another American Forces Network broadcaster and I did public affairs coverage due to a shortage of public affairs Coast Guardsmen. As a public affairs Airman stationed at AFN Kaiserslautern, my normal duties usually consist of covering things like events or exercises in the area in and around Ramstein Air Base, but AFN Europe’s Regional Media Center needed a broadcaster to fill in and I jumped at the opportunity.
At sea
The number one question I am asked since returning is, “Did you get seasick?” The short answer is yes, but only once.
The other broadcaster and I joined the trip in Kodiak, Alaska. The voyage took us up the Bering Strait, then we turned west and made the long trek over Russia to Tromso, Norway, where we had a short stop, then to Copenhagen, Denmark, for another stop, and finally we departed the ship in Reykjavik, Iceland.
U.S Coast Guardsmen aboard the U.S. Coast Guard Cutter Healy (WAGB 20) listens to a presentation about the Norwegian Coast Guard, while the cutter is underway in the Arctic Ocean Sept. 15, 2023. The Healy’s deployment to the Arctic Ocean represents deepening of our cooperation and strengthens the defense of the Arctic and Nordic regions. (U.S. Air Force photo by Airman 1st Class Norman D. Enriquez)
Being in the Air Force, I never expected to be at sea for any amount of time, but I did thoroughly enjoy the roughly two months. The sea above the Arctic Circle was mostly calm with the water having a glassy haze to it some days. When we were conducting ice breaking operations, the ship would vibrate intensely. But there was one particular day later into the voyage when we were heading south along the coast of Norway where I became very seasick, however a quick trip to the ship’s doctor had me medicated and feeling better.
That being said, the camaraderie on the ship really made the time pass a lot faster. From the different events that were hosted by the ship to just sitting in the lounges chatting with the scientist or crewmembers aboard, it helped me become interested and engaged in the operations that were being conducted onboard.
Scandinavia (Tromso, Copenhagen, Reykjavik)
The Norwegian Coast Guard vessel, Svalbard, accompanied us into our first port in Tromso, Norway. Tromso sits just above the Arctic Circle and is considered a major cultural hub. It is a popular destination for those seeking the northern lights, though unfortunately, I did not see them (or any during my month in the Arctic Circle). Other activities such as whale-watching and puffin spotting are also popular. Overall, Tromso was a beautiful city with its classic-looking wooden houses and pointed Arctic Cathedral, all set against a snow-capped mountainous backdrop.
After we sailed down the western side of Norway, we cut east toward Copenhagen. I loved exploring the narrow streets that envelop the Copenhagen downtown area. A highlight for me was browsing through the works at the National Gallery of Denmark, as well as walking through the Botanical Garden which included a sprawling greenhouse that included plants from all over the globe. Something that stuck with me is walking from the frigid outdoor air into the humid and warm tree house and walking up the sixteen-meter-tall, cast-iron spiral staircase in the Palm House.
We reached our final destination in the journey after turning northwest from Copenhagen. The trek to Reykjavik was by far the roughest part of the entire trip. This is when I had to see the ship’s doctor to get some seasickness meds. Once we arrived, however, Reykjavik was by far the most picturesque of the all the stops I made. Wandering the streets of Reykjavik, there was no shortage of sights to behold. The Hallgrimskirkja, a massive church that sits in the center of Reykjavik, is known for its distinctive spire and architecture which has a similar appearance to the hexagonal basalt columns that form naturally in Iceland. The mountain ranges surrounding the city were likewise breathtaking. Looking across the bay to Mount Esja was an amazing way to watch how the sunset tints the landscape’s various shades of orange and pink.
I consider myself incredibly lucky that the American Forces Network gave me the opportunity to go on this TDY and get to experience the High North with the U.S. Coast Guard Cutter Healy. The sea, the ice, the countries and the people were all incredible and I will never forget the memories I made on this trip.
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Preface
“I bet you never imagined the Air Force would bring you here.”
On several occasions, this or something very similar was said to me during a recent TDY I was on. And they were right.
In mid-August, I left for a TDY that most service members, let alone Airmen, would have done anything for. The mission was to conduct public affairs support for the U.S. Coast Guard Cutter Healy (WAGB-20). This may not mean much unless you know that the Healy is designed to conduct research in the polar regions of the world. More specifically, the Healy is an icebreaker that deploys to the Arctic Circle usually once a year.
During the TDY, another American Forces Network broadcaster and I did public affairs coverage due to a shortage of public affairs Coast Guardsmen. As a public affairs Airman stationed at AFN Kaiserslautern, my normal duties usually consist of covering things like events or exercises in the area in and around Ramstein Air Base, but AFN Europe’s Regional Media Center needed a broadcaster to fill in and I jumped at the opportunity.
At sea
The number one question I am asked since returning is, “Did you get seasick?” The short answer is yes, but only once.
The other broadcaster and I joined the trip in Kodiak, Alaska. The voyage took us up the Bering Strait, then we turned west and made the long trek over Russia to Tromso, Norway, where we had a short stop, then to Copenhagen, Denmark, for another stop, and finally we departed the ship in Reykjavik, Iceland.
Being in the Air Force, I never expected to be at sea for any amount of time, but I did thoroughly enjoy the roughly two months. The sea above the Arctic Circle was mostly calm with the water having a glassy haze to it some days. When we were conducting ice breaking operations, the ship would vibrate intensely. But there was one particular day later into the voyage when we were heading south along the coast of Norway where I became very seasick, however a quick trip to the ship’s doctor had me medicated and feeling better.
That being said, the camaraderie on the ship really made the time pass a lot faster. From the different events that were hosted by the ship to just sitting in the lounges chatting with the scientist or crewmembers aboard, it helped me become interested and engaged in the operations that were being conducted onboard.
Scandinavia (Tromso, Copenhagen, Reykjavik)
The Norwegian Coast Guard vessel, Svalbard, accompanied us into our first port in Tromso, Norway. Tromso sits just above the Arctic Circle and is considered a major cultural hub. It is a popular destination for those seeking the northern lights, though unfortunately, I did not see them (or any during my month in the Arctic Circle). Other activities such as whale-watching and puffin spotting are also popular. Overall, Tromso was a beautiful city with its classic-looking wooden houses and pointed Arctic Cathedral, all set against a snow-capped mountainous backdrop.
After we sailed down the western side of Norway, we cut east toward Copenhagen. I loved exploring the narrow streets that envelop the Copenhagen downtown area. A highlight for me was browsing through the works at the National Gallery of Denmark, as well as walking through the Botanical Garden which included a sprawling greenhouse that included plants from all over the globe. Something that stuck with me is walking from the frigid outdoor air into the humid and warm tree house and walking up the sixteen-meter-tall, cast-iron spiral staircase in the Palm House.
We reached our final destination in the journey after turning northwest from Copenhagen. The trek to Reykjavik was by far the roughest part of the entire trip. This is when I had to see the ship’s doctor to get some seasickness meds. Once we arrived, however, Reykjavik was by far the most picturesque of the all the stops I made. Wandering the streets of Reykjavik, there was no shortage of sights to behold. The Hallgrimskirkja, a massive church that sits in the center of Reykjavik, is known for its distinctive spire and architecture which has a similar appearance to the hexagonal basalt columns that form naturally in Iceland. The mountain ranges surrounding the city were likewise breathtaking. Looking across the bay to Mount Esja was an amazing way to watch how the sunset tints the landscape’s various shades of orange and pink.
I consider myself incredibly lucky that the American Forces Network gave me the opportunity to go on this TDY and get to experience the High North with the U.S. Coast Guard Cutter Healy. The sea, the ice, the countries and the people were all incredible and I will never forget the memories I made on this trip.