Crusing the Rhine River

Story and photos by A.L. Shaff
Contributing writer


Spring has sprung, Summer will come and the hordes of visitors will start to arrive.
Everyone will ask first for a castle visit then a cruise on the Rhine River. Here’s a primer on how to accomplish both in three different successful way and fulfill all requests as the perfect host.

The simplest way involves your friendly United Service Organizations, which runs bus tours that include the bus, tour leader, the visit to Rheinstein Castle near Bingen am Rhein, and the cruise from St. Goar to Assmanshausen. After lunch, followed by wine tasting and a chance to buy sampled wines, the bus drops you in Rudesheim for walking and shopping (plus a chance to sample the famous Rudesheimer Kaffe.) The bus safely brings you home by 8 p.m. and the trip costs around $89.

Or, for those who want more memories with their families, you can plan a parallel trip by car. A two hour drive on the autobahn brings you to Bingen. Once there, drive through Bingen toward St. Goar for 3.5 kilometers and park on the left. Burg Rheinstein stands high above the river with majestic views of the entire valley. Frau Hecher, mistress of the castle, gives a short talk before inviting you to tour the refurbished and redecorated castle (€4.50).

Return down the steep hill, and drive north to St. Goar to catch the car ferry that crosses to St. Goarshausen on the east shore. Drive to Assmanshausen for lunch at Restaurant zum Anker on the main drag. This place invites you to sit in a barrel and sip a glass of local wine. 

From either Assmanshausen or Ruedesheim, take a two-hour KD cruise ship down the river in the direction of  Koblenz. This stretch of the Rhine takes you past the legendary Lorelei cliffs, the Mouse Tower and ruins of many fortresses overlooking the valley. Prices will vary by length of the trip, so restrict yourself two hours, then return to Rudesheim for shopping and dinner.

The Drosselgasse in Rudesheim presents one of the most famous tourist walks in Germany with wine shops and restaurants lining each side. Carved wooden facades on the shops depict scenes from the vineyards above the town. Rudesheim also offers a museum dedicated to musical toys and mechanical music boxes of all sizes.

The most famous drink on the Rhine (other than fine wines) is Rudesheimer Kaffee, which servers make at the table by dropping sugars cube in the bottom of specially made cups, pouring in Asbach-Uralt, the strong local brandy, and lighting it. The server pours in hot coffee, which continues to flame, then adds whipped cream and chocolate flakes over the whole concoction. Asbach Uralt distillers mix 17 different wines then age it for three years to create their signal “Soul of  Wine.”

High on the hills above the town, the mighty statue of Germania dominates the Rhine Valley. Built after the Franco-Prussian War, the massive statue once bore the name “Wach am Rhein” but now is called by the nondescript title Niederwald Denkmal (Lower Forest Memorial), denoting its location. Visitors can reach the statue by 45 minute walk, by cable car from Rudesheim or by car.

From Rudesheim, drive back toward Mainz, then intersect the autobahn toward Kaiserslautern and zip home in two hours.

Important hint: Avoid weekends because the crowds get brutal. Instead, take off a day to build memories with family and friends.

A third way to fulfill your visitors’ Rhine River wishes (while you work) involves hiring a private guide for a one- or two-day trip that includes transportation, a German-speaking American guide with experience at Burg Rheinstein, the cruise ship, and the best sights. The guide can also arrange overnight accommodations and suggest walking tours and purchases.

For more information, call B. Mack at 06371-946-084.